Let's do it!

Last Saturday Aaron, Chas and I enjoyed a lovely day-trip to Samsø, an island 15 kilometers from the mainland. Rikke was enjoying her annual ladies weekend away, this year in Gothenburg, Sweden, and Olivia was attending a birthday and sleep over celebration with friends .. as teenagers do.

Samsø is a small island 28 km long and 7 km wide, and only 500m wide at its narrowest point. There are approximately 3700 permanent residents dispersed amongst 22 little villages. It has a beautiful and varied natural landscape from sandy and rocky beaches, hills, cliffs, and forests. With a focus on culture, history, nature and children’s activities, there is much to see and do. The whole of Samsø is suitable for cycling, as it is mostly flat, and it is a drawcard for cyclists and hikers.

Samsø is an agricultural area famous for its potatoes, and other vegetables, and for its renewable energy. Since 2007 the island has been self sufficient with energy from wind, sun and biomass.

We caught the ferry at Hou for the hour long trip to the island.

With a relaxed plan to enjoy as much of the island as we could in one day, we decided to begin at the northern tip of Samso – Issehoved. With stunning views from the Nordby Bakker’s cliffs you can see the intrepid walkers down on the beautiful sandy beach below.

Unfortunately we did not have sufficient time to do the walk on today's trip, but we have previously completed the trek to Grenen, the northernmost point at the tip of Denmark.

2.5km from the tip is the little village of Nordby, and approximately 2km south of the township is a beautiful medieval church. Apparently at the time there had been two other villages (which no longer exist), with the church located roughly in the middle. However the church bell which was used to call the residents to services could not be heard by the residents of Nordby, especially when there was a wind blowing. The bell announced the rising and setting of the sun, services in the church, the event of a fire (which was a serious threat as there are many thatched cottages and farms in the village). The bell was also used to announce other very important happenings in the village such as the slaughter of animals and the subsequent sale of the meat in the square.

Consequently by 17thC a bell tower had been erected in Nordby so the parishioners could be called to services. The bell tower that now stands in the village square was built in 1857 and is one of the most famous landmarks on Samsø.

A group of local volunteers are now responsible for the ringing of the bell. It is no longer used to call villages for church services, but is used to announce the rising and setting of the sun between the Easter and the Autumn school holidays, as well as on Saturdays and Sundays throughout the rest of the year. However, the bell sounds every day at Christmas.

The other attraction at Nordby is the quaint village itself. Most of the houses are the traditional thatched cottage style. It is lovely to just wander around the streets and enjoy the calm and peaceful surroundings. The local thatcher states that a thatched roof lasts between 40 and 60 years, and some of the most stylish thatched roofs are in Nordby.

After a simple but very enjoyable lunch at the Samsø Bryghus (brewery) and café, we headed south along the coast road, travelling through many of the small villages, our destination was one we did not want to miss .. Vesborg Fyr, the beautiful old white lighthouse at the south west tip of the island. From the northern tip to the southern.

Built in 1858 it offers magnificent 380deg views from the viewing platform .. 100 (or so) very narrow steps on a spiral staircase. Going up was fine .. going down needed a little more care. But it was very well worth it.

The first four photos are the views from all sides. Apparently there are a number of summer holiday houses available for rent at the lighthouse. Can you imagine the view in a storm from the little cottage in the first pic. Wow.!!...

The lighthouse is located on what was one of the largest military fortresses from the Middle Ages in Denmark.

You can see more photos of the lighthouse here Vesborg Fyr

As time was running short, we then travelled to the eastern side for coffee and ice cream at Ballen Marina, Samsø’s largest and most visited marina. There was lots of activity with people eating fish and chips, many families swimming on the beach, and children playing in the sand soaking up the beautiful, warm and sunny day. At this time of year the Danes are very aware that these beautiful summery days are nearly at an end for the year.

Another great day in an area of Denmark we had not previously visited, with the sun reflected on the water on our ferry trip home .. so good.

The Viking Ship Museum
The other main tourist attraction in Roskilde is the Viking Ship Museum. I have visited a number of Viking attractions over the years so I wasn't sure if this museum would offer anything more of interest. I was pleasantly surprised. It was very different, and very interesting as the museum is focused on the history of Viking ships, especially the five original vessels from the 11thC which had been unearthed from the local harbour. They are known as the Skuldelev Ships.

The Vikings were seafarers who sailed up and down the coast of Europe and throughout the North Atlantic area. Ships were vital to their existence.

In the late Viking Age (around 11thC) Roskilde was already a city of importance but they needed to control the sea route into Roskilde against enemy attacks. So they took five old Viking ships filled them with stones, towed them to the narrowest part of the fjord and sunk them, creating an effective barrier and protecting the city. This occurred on several occasions from a little after the middle of the 1000s. https://shorturl.at/YEwel

In 1962, the National Museum commenced the challenging task of excavating these five ships which had been sunk in two meters of water. This was a complex task and they were not sure that it would be successful. After much research and preparation on 6 July 1962, after having dammed the area, they turned on the pumps to remove the water from where the ships lay. This is considered to be one of the most groundbreaking archaeological excavations in Danish history.

After uncovering them they had to measure, register and number each piece, painstakingly remove thousands of ships parts, record and document everything, and a thousand other tasks required to preserve the items for conservation. For those who are interested, the complete and amazing process is recorded here https://www.vikingeskibsmuseet.dk/en/visit-the-museum/exhibitions/the-five-viking-ships/the-excavation

They unearthed five ships – an ocean going trader, a great longship, a coastal trader, a small longship and a fishing vessel. Amazingly, by 17 October 1962, everything was back to normal in the harbour.

The Viking Ship Museum overlooking the inlet of Roskilde Fjord was built in 1969 with the main purpose of exhibiting the five newly discovered ships. The Museum’s shipyard has constructed examples of these ships, and during the summer season they are located in the Museum harbor.

The Museum is also an active experimental archaeology research centre with its own shipyard. Craftsmen, academics and seamen work together to research and learn more about their maritime cultural heritage.

The researchers identified that the great longship (No 2) was built around 1042 in Glendalough, Ireland. It was made of oak, carried a crew of 65-70 men, with 60 oars and could travel at a top speed of 13-17 knots. It was the longest of the ships at 30m. It was an ocean-going warship and was possibly the ship of a chieftain.

This ship has been totally reconstructed. They first drew each part to scale 1:10 and constructed it in cardboard. They then built a wooden model based on the cardboard construction. It was then built using the materials, tools, and methods of the Viking age. It is the largest and least well preserved ship to be constructed. As can be seen in the photo, it would not have been a very comfortable experience for the crew.

It has been named The Sea Stallion of Glendalough and has successfully completed a trial voyage from Roskilde to Dublin and back. The Sea Stallion from Glendalough is on display in the museum harbour.
https://web.archive.org/web/20120321163023/http://www.vikingeskibsmuseet.dk/en/exhibitions/the-skuldelev-ships/skuldelev-2/

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Coincidentally, when Chas and I visit Ireland in 2012 we visited the ruins of a monastery in Glendalough. It is a beautiful area in County Wicklow. The monastery was founded by St Kevin, one of Ireland’s most revered saints, in the sixth century. http://monastic.ie/history/glendalough/...

Aaron, Rikke & Olivia on The Sea Stallion ..

Skuldelev 2 - The great longship

Variety of different Viking ships in the harbour

Looking over the bow of Skuldelev 2 to the harbour

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We definitely recommend a visit, if you find yourself up this way someday.

We had a lovely time. Here are some happy snaps of our trip .. 😃

Delicious Indian evening meal in Roskilde

Delicious brunch, Roskilde -- nobody went hungry !

Many such evening meals on the deck in the summer light.

Beautiful clear water for swimming.

Picnic at Moesgaard Beach
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Traditional fisherman's cottage at the beach

Giber Creek which runs through Moesgaard forest

Marker which guides people through the forest

Moss covered tree stump

Viking day at Moesgaard ... two Viking ships taking visitors for a traditional trip

10pm twilight - summer time

Aaron and Rikke actually swimming in Aarhus harbour - 8pm

Sounds we don't hear very often in Australia. While this was a Sunday, the bells are also often heard at other times.

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A hard day on the job for the lifeguard at Moesgaard Beach. A Viking day was being held further up the beach with lots of fun activities for the kids. The sound is not so good, but you will understand what I mean

Monday 15 July ... Flight Emirates Brisbane to Dubai, Dubai to Copenhagen. Train Copenhagen airport to Aarhus.

Our journey began with the shuttle bus from our front gate at 3.30pm Monday and we arrived at Copenhagen 2pm Tuesday. Not our most enjoyable trip. We were very pleased to leave the plane when we arrived in Copenhagen. Then with another four or so hours train trip we finally arrived. 6 time zones and approximately 36 hours travelling.

Summer in DK .... 21^o C , and cloudy, and NO jetlag. . It is absolutely amazing how well melatonin works.

It was great to be back, and very happy to be with Aaron, Rikke and Olivia again, and have 'real' hugs instead of 'virtual' hugs.

We took a couple of days to relax and settle in, then on Sunday we enjoyed lunch in a lovely restaurant near Silkeborg. This is in an area called the 'Lake District' as there are a large number of beautiful lakes in the area. https://www.visitaarhus.com/areas-and-cities/lake-district/see-and-do-lake-district/lakes-lake-district

Aalekroen restaurant is situated beside one of the lakes called Julsø. In Denmark it is important to take advantage of every warm summer day as one cannot be certain when the next will come. So after lunch Rikke requested a swim at Lake Almindsø which has a lovely swimming area. Chas and I declined (for obvious reasons - water temp approx. 20^oC - and instead enjoyed a relaxed walk through the local forest. Most swimming areas are calm, and the water is clear and beautiful.

Roskilde Cathedral

On Wednesday 24 July we took an overnight trip to Roskilde which is on the island of Zealand in eastern Denmark. The drawcard was a visit to Roskilde Cathedral. It is the most important church in Denmark as it is the official royal burial church of the Danish monarchs since the 15th century. It has also been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its ‘Outstanding Universal Value’. It is also still an active and living church for Roskilde residents.

Historical records from the 1000s show King Harold Bluetooth initially built a wooden church, with a brick church built on the site about 1080. The Cathedral was built about 1200 and was the first Gothic church in Scandinavia. It was originally Catholic, but since the Reformation in 1536 it has been Lutheran.

Forty kings and queens are thought to rest here, from Harold Bluetooth 987 to Frederik 9 1972 and Queen Ingrid 2000. Although there are more than 1000 graves of noblemen, clergy and other citizens in the church.

I had visited in 2003 when we travelled to Denmark for Aaron and Rikke's wedding. It was a brief visit, and I mean approximately 15 minutes, as unfortunately we had arrived just before closing. So I have always wanted a return visit.

Apart from the historical aspect of the royal burial sites and the grandeur of the tombs, the architecture of the building is beautiful, as are the Altarpiece and organ, impressive ceilings and frescos.

We chose to have a guided tour which took us on an historical journey through the times. There is even a model of Queen Margrethe 2 tomb. Enjoy this snapshot of Roskilde Cathedral.

Looking down the nave of the church towards the Altarpiece showcasing the magnificent vaulted ceiling.

The Altarpiece. Made in Antwerp (about 1560) the motif depicts the life, death and resurrection of Jesus Christ. Made from oak covered by gold foil.

The Chapel of the Three Kings King Frederik 2 (1588) and Queen Dorothea (1571)

Statue of Christian IV

Frederik 5's Chapel (1839)

King Frederik 9 (1972) and Queen Ingrid (2000), Queen Margrethe's parents. They had asked to be buried outside the cathedral's walls, in the open air, so an open mausoleum was designed just outside the Cathedral. It is made of red brick in a simple openwork pattern.

The Cathedral soaring spires. The towers are 75.5m high. The spires were added in 1635.

Original frescos

The Clock is from around 1500. Every quarter, the figure Kirsten Kimer strikes the little bell. Every hour St George kills the dragon; it lets out a death wail, and the figure Per Døver then strikes the big bell.

Former City Hall

A lovely 'welcome' to Mungallala ... painted on a saw blade, depicting the three main industries of the area ... timber, sheep and cattle.

Our family was introduced to the outback when my sister was transferred to Mungallala in 1965 as a recently graduated teacher to complete her 'remote area' service. This was compulsory at the time to ensure the more remote areas had available teachers. She was swept off her feet by a local grazier from one of the pioneering families of the area ... and stayed. . In country Australia there is a saying that you are not considered a 'local' until you have lived in the town for over 20 years. My sister is definitely not only a 'local', but has been a major contributor having being a teacher to many of the kids of the town, and an active participant in community 'ups and downs' over these years.

They still have their cattle and sheep property a little way out of town, with cattle and 2500 sheep (for wool production), but they have also been licencees of the Club Hotel ... fondly referred to as the 'Munga Pub' .. since 1998.

This area was first explored by Major Thomas Mitchell on his expedition into the outback in 1846, with brave souls taking up occupation of what were termed 'runs' of unoccupied Crown land, with the first in the Mungallala area around the early 1860s. Cobb and Co services began in 1876, and the railway around 1885. My brother-in-law's family arrived in 1902, and have continued to work (and expand) the original property since that time.

The first licence for a hotel was granted in 1906, but unfortunately that two-storey building was destroyed by fire in 1918. It was replaced by the building that stands today which is at least 100 years old. It is a typical country pub which carries the stories, the history, the energy, and the passions of the community, and is the heart and the hub of all that goes on in a small town.

The sawmill, which processes cypress pine from state forests north of Mungallala, is the main employer, with approximately 20 staff. .The changing times have caused most of the businesses in town to close (butcher, garage, general store), with many of the locals having to move away for employment. However, the community spirit remains.

The Mungallala Progress and Sporting Association Incorporated is the voice for the community, and supports, and facilitates, the various activities. We were amazed what is available. Check these out.

The Memorial Hall where community activities, dances etc are held. It also houses the library and the post office.

The recreation centre offers a children's play area, tennis , basketball, netball, futsal courts, AND a community garden. Amazing.

Also, an exercise machine providing three strength exercises

A cricket wicket and (lush green!!) oval, complete with a pavilion for spectators to watch the excitement, and/or enjoy a refreshing beer.

AND ... the pièce de résistance .... a 3-hole golf course, which runs around the outside of the oval.

Click on the link to check out their promotional video. How could one resist playing one of the 'most exclusive clubs in the world' .. where 'skill is optional'
The Royal Box

..... 1st tee
.....4th tee

The water supply for the town is provided from the town bore, and is clear enough to drink only treated with chlorination.
A little further on from the rec centre is a dam .. currently empty .... called the Turkey's Nest. .In times of drought it is still possible for graziers to obtain a permit to graze their cattle along the 'stock route' to obtain feed. . When a permit is allocated for a herd to pass through the township, the dam can be filled from the town bore to ensure water is available. Yes, the drover still exists.

This info on the stock routes is taken from the Queensland Government website. It's another aspect of Australian life, and the 'outback' in particular, that such a service is required, and available.

Stock routes include 72,000km of roads, reserves, and corridors on pastoral leases and unallocated state land. Together with dedicated reserves for travelling stock, they make up the 2.6 million hectare Queensland stock route network. To use the stock route network, you need permits for: travelling stock on foot, grazing (agistment) of stock, using water facilities.

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The police station is currently unmanned .. the police presence comes from the nearest town of Mitchell

The dead centre of town ( I know ... an old joke)

Even in this small town the Rural Fire Service is imperative. Manned by local volunteers who are advised by an 'alert' via the 000 emergency service, they immediately stop what they are doing and assemble at this local depot.

As mentioned previously, the Cobb and Co passenger and mail stagecoach services began in 1876. This park was the original site .. now a public toilet facility for travellers. The Progress Association commissioned the art work on the block, as well as the unique statue of the drover and his dog which stands in the grounds of the Memorial Hall.

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We had the pleasure of being in Mungallala at the big event Mungallala Reunion - Easter weekend 1981. Everyone who had anything to do with Mungallala's past was there ... over 1000 people attended. . As part of the official functions a 'time capsule' was compiled providing historic information of the local area which was opened at the school centenary in 2004. Another capsule was then put in its place, to be opened in 2029 (25 years).

A glimpse of the road out of town showing the mulga woodlands and shrublands which are predominant in the area.

Mungallala Creek ... and beautiful 'Black Kites' flying high above. Since we returned from our trip 35mm of rain has fallen. Added a little water to the creek, but more is needed .But it definitely lifted the spirits of the locals.

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Then (1981) ... and now.
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Aaron, Braden and I arrived in Mungallala on the 'Westlander' at this little station in 1981 . Today these two cuties look expectantly down the track for the train, but unfortunately the passenger service no longer operates.

Chas came across this telephone booth on his exploration of the town. On impulse he picked up the handset and was very surprised to find not only that it is still operational, BUT calls are free. So he promptly phoned me at the pub to tell me so. I expect this is a 'service' provided for the safety of travellers in case of emergency.

In its heyday Mungallala had four churches .. Methodist, Uniting, Anglican and Catholic. While this is the only building that has survived, it is now privately owned and provides a great service as a granny flat for visiting guests.

On the Saturday evening Mungallala gave us a 'unique' outback experience .. a dust storm came through town. It wasn't the type that you may have seen on Facebook where the dust rolls in like a cloud. It moved slowly over the evening, but its presence was very evident the next morning.

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The Pub

This is an example of the importance of the 'pub' to the functioning of the town .. The sign says:: "Christmas Mass Sunday Dec 23, 4 pm held at the Mungallala Pub. All welcome." .What can one say!!

... country humour

.... writing your signature, or a little ditty, is encouraged. There's not a lot of room left, on the walls ... or the ceiling.

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Mungallala School .. The best small school in the west

This is a one-teacher school, hoping for nine students when school commences this year.

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Wow... we had a lovely time. After 1,200km or so, and one week, we arrived back on the Sunshine Coast. Whilst driving through Maleny with lush green grass and flowering agapanthus everywhere, I took a quick glimpse of The Glasshouse Mountains. Beautiful. But that's Australia .. a country of diversity, and extremes.

I hope you have enjoyed sharing our trip. The Australia bush is a unique experience. I would expect many city folk never have, or do not take, the opportunity to experience it. So, if the opportunity to do so comes along, take it. Drop into the Munga Pub, and say 'g'day'.

After selling our home at Dicky Beach. and unable to move into our new home until February, Chas and I planned to 'couch surf' with the rellies for a few weeks visiting my four siblings (three sisters and one brother). This was fine as three of them lived in South East Queensland, relatively close to each other. It was wonderful to just hang out together for a week or so. This is not something we do enough as adults. We get engrossed in life, catch up for lunch, special occasions etc, but I've found it a different experience to spend extended time together without any fuss or fanfare. So that's what we did.

However, my eldest sister misses out on many of our catch-ups as she lives in a very small town in Western Queensland ..... Mungallala. They are suffering many hardships with the drought as they have a cattle and sheep property and are currently hand feeding 2500 sheep, and I don't know how many cattle. So Chas and I decided to take this opportunity to drop in for a visit. My sister's first words when we told her of our plan was "Why would you want to do that?" ... referring to the drought, and the 40Cdeg temperatures. Our response "To see you of course".

So, that's what we did.

Mungallala is a small town in Western Queensland between Mitchell and Charleville. There are only about 35 people in the township itself, with more from surrounding properties. The main industry, and employer, is the sawmill which processes cypress pine from state forests north of Mungallala. However, the focus of the town is the Club Hotel, known by the locals as 'the pub'. My sister and her husband are the licencees of this fine establishment. It has a long history being built around 100 years ago after a fire demolished the original building in 1918, and is the meeting place, and the hub of this little town.

Life is hard for this community which has been gripped by drought for years. The 2016 Census identified Mungallala as 'the poorest town in Australia' ... Poorest town in Australia .... but the locals say what they lack in money, they make up for in community spirit. And this is what we found.

Starting at Toowoomba we headed west, pretty much in a straight line .. Dalby, Chinchilla, Miles, Roma, Mitchell, Mungallala .. 480km along the Warrego Way, through the Western Downs to the Outback. Whenever travelling in the Australian bush I cannot help but reflect on Dorothea Mackellar's 'My Country' .. the size, the contrasts, the openness, the mountains, the struggles. Magnificent.

The Western Downs area is home to prime farming land, and agriculture is a major industry in the area renowned for grain and cotton growing, and cattle and sheep (wool) production.

Fluffs of cotton lay everywhere along the side of the road.

The iconic symbols of the outback .... roadkill. In some sections there were dead roos every metre or so on both sides of the road. Even in daylight hours one has to be aware when travelling on these roads.

Overtaking a 3-trailer Road Train .... Road trains are the means of transport in the outback. You get out of their way very quickly ....

Dogwood Creek, just outside Miles .. almost as 'dry as a bone'.

When heading west along the Warrego Way, Roma could be termed the start of the 'outback', and is the administrative hub for the Maranoa Region

A proud feature of the region is these beautiful trees, commonly known as the Queensland bottle tree. This one is Roma's largest with a girth of 5.61m (it requires six average sized men to reach around it), a height of 6m and a crown of 20m. The swelling is due to the water held within its fibrous trunk. This one is over 100 years, but they can live for over 200 years, in fact very large trees which were described by Major Mitchell when he first explored the area in 1846 are still growing.

The area is also known for its oil, and coal seam gas (GSC) exploration. The 'Big Rig' in Roma commemorates those who developed the industry. It is considered to be the birth place of the oil and gas industry in Australia, with natural gas used as lighting in Roma as early as 1906.

Mining is a major industry with reports showing 5,127 CSG production wells in operation in mid-2016 (I expect more since then), and despite the call to keep fossil fuels in the ground, coal mining continues with 290 mining proposals approved in the decade prior to 2017. National mapping reveals that 37.3% of Australia is covered by coal and gas licences and applications.

This is a contentious issue with differing perspectives on its value depending on which side of the fence one sits. I was unable to download a map showing the extent of the gas operations, but with tens of thousands of wells and associated infrastructure, they are having a devastating effect with encroachment on good farming land, disruption of other land uses and industries, clearing of bushland, air pollution, contamination or depletion of ground or surface water, pollution of waterways, health impacts on workers and nearby residents, and damage to biodiversity. Needless to say .. I am not a fan.

Nor am I a very good photographer. We past this coal train on our way home but in my rush to capture it I took a burst of photos ... 180 in all (yes, that's correct) .. instead of using the video function. So you will have to imagine the length of this train starting with the 2 engines and finishing with the last wagon .. with 41 wagons in between, each with the capacity to carry 100 tonnes of coal per wagon. (I looked this up )

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It's been quite a while since I visited the west .. probably mid to late 80s ... so I was very much looking forward to returning, and spending time with my sister. On our way ....